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重生之商战无敌,热议背后,解读当下年轻人对日韩文化的狂热追捧

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近期,四川浪莎控股股份有限公司(600137.SH,下称“浪莎股份”)因为“3·15”晚会的曝光而备受关注。据了解,央视3·15晚会曝光了部分一次性内裤徒手制作不灭菌问题,其中点名了河南健芝初医疗器械有限公司,该公司便曾生产“浪莎”等品牌的一次性内裤或内衣。

当晚,浪莎股份收到上交所关于3·15报道的监管工作函,要求浪莎股份说明是否存在信息披露违规、是否与涉事代工厂存在关联。尽管浪莎宣称与涉事方企业“无直接合作”,但公司的经营模式仍然遭到质疑。

“一般真正做品牌,不会去卖标贴牌。”在资深品牌管理专家、上海良栖品牌管理有限公司创始人程伟雄看来,浪莎股份的生产以贴牌代工模式为主,但对于代工企业的管理,公司可能并未做到尽职尽责。

在ESG方面,浪莎股份在ESG得分为4.63,评级为B,在220家同类上市公司中排名为207,评分远低于李宁(7.46)、361°(7.25)、安踏(7.19)等公司。此外,浪莎股份连续多年未公布社会责任报告,其年度财报中也未曾提及。

程伟雄认为,浪莎作为一家上市公司没有很好履行持续化成长ESG,导致品牌中长期战略方向的缺失,过于注重短期业绩导向,带来品牌监管的失控,特别是对在线贴牌模式在品质和服务过程中的缺位,导致品牌贴牌乱象。

代工失控与供应链责任失守

在社会(S)方面,浪莎股份在ESG上得分为2.86,远低于李宁(6.07)、波司登(6.89)和江南布衣(7.10)等同行上市企业。

浪莎股份2023年年报显示,2023年浪莎股份代工超过85%;2024年半年报显示,浪莎股份仍旧采用自主设计、生产外包供应链管理经营模式为主(下称“OEM”,即公司将所需要的产品委托给其他合作厂商按照公司制定的生产标准、款式要求进行生产加工)。

浪莎股份对于供应链的责任管理遭到质疑。据梳理,浪莎股份近年来已经数次因抽检不合格被处罚。2023年6月,江苏省市场监督管理局发布《学生校服等67种消费品质量省级监督抽查情况的通报》,其中多批次内衣产品纤维含量项目不合格,包括浪莎股份全资子公司浙江浪莎内衣有限公司生产的内衣,显示纤维含量(公定)不合格。

2023年8月,广东省市场监督管理局发布关于服装产品质量监督抽查情况的通告。结果显示,标称由浙江浪莎内衣有限公司生产、广州唯品会电子商务有限公司销售的“VIP-浪莎鸿运纯棉男士内裤4条装”产品使用说明(标识)项目不合格。

2025年2月,国家市场监督管理局通报2024年空气净化器等26种网售产品质量国家监督抽查情况,标称“浪莎控股集团有限公司”生产的浪莎家居服(规格型号:女3XL;货号:LSSQ-A026;款号:35297)纤维含量不合格。

而此次被“3·15”晚会点名的生产“浪莎”品牌一次性内裤的河南健芝初医疗器械有限公司,亦被指存在严重卫生问题,包括未进行灭菌处理、徒手包装、伪造检测报告,部分产品甚至以涤纶冒充纯棉材质等。

尽管事发后浪莎股份宣称与涉事方企业“无直接合作”,但据澎湃新闻相关报道,上述涉事代工厂河南健芝初医疗器械有限公司,与浪莎一款一次性内裤的供应商河南恒庆祥服饰注册地址仅相隔数米,且或存在人员关联。

与此同时,浪莎股份所有一次性内裤产品全网下架,但仍有大批消费者涌入其官微质疑“贴牌模式”的诚信问题,要求公布灭菌工艺追溯证据。此外,浪莎股份的股价亦或因此受到影响,目前市值缩水至13亿左右,较2024年峰值下跌近70%。

事实上,在当下内衣行业,采用OEM代工模式较为普遍,诸如爱慕股份、蕉内等品牌均涉足其中,但相较于浪莎股份,爱慕股份等品牌代工比例较低,核心环节仍自主把控。根据爱慕股份2023年年报披露,其代工OEM业务收入为1.03亿元,占营业总收入的比例为3.00%。

虽然代工模式能降本增效,但若品控沦为“纸上谈兵”,品牌信誉便成了空中楼阁。浪莎股份年报中提到的“对代工厂生产过程跟踪、质量验收”在此次事件中形同虚设。而浪莎此前宣传的“EO灭菌”“抑菌率99%”被证实为虚假承诺,直接引发消费者信任崩塌。

此外,浪莎官网多次发布商标侵权声明,2025年1月要求部分经销商停止使用未授权商标,但是3·15事件中代工厂仍继续公然使用浪莎品牌生产,反映出其品牌授权亦存在管理漏洞。

品牌形象固化与高端化突围艰难

浪莎股份前身为四川长江包装控股股份有限公司(原四川省长江造纸厂),2007年通过借壳上市登陆上海证券交易所,成为A股首家以内衣为主营业务的上市公司。

浪莎最初专注于中国袜业市场,其创始人翁荣弟甚至被称为“中国袜业大王”。但是浪莎的辉煌并未持续多久。尽管浪莎早已进军内衣领域,但是在消费者认知里,浪莎品牌仍与“袜子”强关联,因此其内衣产品难以建立高端形象,消费者忠诚度难以提高。

由于浪莎长期定位大众市场,依赖低价策略,导致品牌高端化突围艰难。2024年前三季度毛利率仅18.63%,远低于同行爱慕股份(66%)、汇洁股份(69%)。浪莎内衣主打“纯棉”“基础款”,而行业已进入“无尺码”“抗菌凉感”等细分赛道,产品创新和品质升级滞后于消费需求。

目前,浪莎未孵化独立高端品牌,仅通过“浪莎”主品牌延伸,且其官网仍强调“国民品牌”“高性价比”,导致消费者对高价产品接受度低。天猫旗舰店数据显示,浪莎内衣主力价格区间为29-79元,而爱慕、华歌尔等品牌均价在200-500元区间。

此外,浪莎未在财报中披露消费者画像研究,缺乏对年轻群体需求的主动洞察,品牌形象停留在90年代“家庭式消费”场景,与新一代消费者(如Z世代)追求的功能性、个性化需求脱节。反观爱慕、内外等品牌已经通过“体验店+快闪店”模式重塑形象。

另一方面,浪莎没有及时抓住互联网电商浪潮,2012年左右,中国电商行业逐渐大量爆发,消费力从线下向线上迁徙。而彼时浪莎的线上销售收入占比仅为11%,布局显得有些落后。此后年度,虽然在公司的积极拓展下,线上业务占比逐年上升,但错过了最佳时机。

横向对比各品牌业绩表现,浪莎股份2021~2023年营收为4.02亿元、3.27亿元、3.88亿元,始终在3亿至4亿元区间波动,规模和十年前相差无几,远低于同行爱慕股份、汇洁股份。从盈利来看,自2010年起,浪莎股份的整体毛利率便再未突破20%。

面对诸多市场问题,浪莎股份应该做好供应链管理,回归自营,并加强生产工艺研发投入,从“被动应对”转向“主动治理”,避免因治理问题引发连锁危机。

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